updated on 09/17/08 |
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page
created May 2002 |
Version 3.1
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Note: The same ultra-simple design than its predecessor, the Stirling engine, with its diameter cylinder a little larger, can turn easily from moderate heat sources such as the one hand, or that produced by radiation a halogen lamp, and of course under he sunlight.
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On the left image, we see turn illuminated by halogen lamp 50W (12V) at about 60 rpm. For this, the engine is equipped with a solar very rudimentary, consisting of a single sheet of aluminum 0.6 mm thick, cut to shape and painted matte black.
On the right image in bright sunlight (55,000 lux), equipped with the same sensor, it turns at 85 rpm - (in the same lighting conditions, a newer version now runs at 170 rpm and producing electricity ...)
Although its manufacture does not pose any particular problems, it requires still a little more precision than the previous model, especially for everything concerning the geometry (parallelism, perpendicularity, etc..). If this is your first project, I would advise you rather start with you hand on the simplified model.
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Overview |
slide |
cylinder
and piston engines |
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Materials
- Cylinder: aluminum sheet funds ep 0.8, flank Rhodoïd ep 0.5
- Spacers: cylindrical rod Ø 6 plastic, nylon or Delrin (brand name
under which DuPont sells acetal resin)
- Mover (piston inside the cylinder) piece of ceiling tile of expanded polystyrene
(ca. 9 mm thick), ep 3 plywood
- Cylinder: packaging film 24 x 36 (translucent)
- Diaphragm piston engine: piece of disposable vinyl gloves (possibly thermoformed
semi-torus)
- Gantry: plastic profile 10 x10 x 1
- Rods, axes, crankshaft: piano wire Ø 0.8
- Landing, slide and slide adjustment: brass tube 2.5 int
- Miscellaneous: screws, washers, glass beads roughly Ø ext. 2.3 -
int roughly. 0.9 / / cyanoacrylate adhesive, thermal adhesive, neoprene adhesive,
silicone sealant
- Flywheel: a CD well colored, much nicer ... o)
Construction
of main structure
1 - a foil thickness of 0.8 mm, start by tracing the contour
of the upper plate (a). Then draw a central axis (b), and from there, the
axes of the mounting holes spacers (c), the contour of the cylinder and cut
into half-moon (d), and finally the position of the feet of the portico (e).
2 - using a shear cut the contour of the plate, then drill all the holes.
The half-moon can be easily cut with a cutting saw few mm in diameter (model),
otherwise, drill several holes tangent, you open a small file or a small
cylindrical cutter.
3 - in the brass tube 2.5 mm internal diameter, cut a piece of 32 mm (f).
4 - with a drop of glue Cyanoacrylate glue at each end a glass bead, which
will be chosen with a set of 0.1 mm maximum diameter compared to the piano
wire Ø 0.8 mm.
5 - epoxy glue to the tube and prepared at the center of the plate, making
sure it is perfectly perpendicular.
6 - after cutting at 20 mm from the top of the cap, a packaging film 24 x
36 (h), paste it up on stage, either with silicone sealant applied widely
enough, either, which is better with cyanoacrylate glue "Super Plastic" from
Loctite that seems to adhere quite well polypropylene (provided, however,
the roughening of the abrasive cloth - about his
models, N. Vivet successfully
using the Ara metal ).
7 - cut out the elements of the portico (e) in a plastic profile 10 x 10
x 1, and assemble the dish with cyanoacrylate glue. Then a few minutes later,
when it is sufficiently stiff paste in place on the plate with epoxy glue,
checking squareness.
8 - Cut a piece of 48 mm brass tube 2.5 mm internal diameter (i).
9 - with a drop of glue Cyanoacrylate glue at each end a glass bead, selected
to present a set of 0.1 mm maximum diameter compared to the piano wire (Ø 0.8
mm).
10 - paste to glue the tube and heat prepared at the center of the stem,
making sure it is centered, horizontal well and correctly aligned.
11 - draw and cut out a piece of Rhodoïd ep 0.5 mm, a strip of 17mm
wide by 560mm long (k). Connect both ends with silicone sealant with a lap
of 20 mm. Let cure for several hours while maintaining the tight seal with
a clothespin o)
12 - once the solidified paste joined the band in place under the tray, using
a continuous bead of silicone sealant smoothed with a wet finger (or classic
slice of potato !...)
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1 - a piece of ceiling tile styrofoam
from 9 mm thick cut with a hot wire a disc Ø 165 mm (n)
2 - in the ep 3 mm plywood, cut a disc Ø 40 mm (o).
3 - hollow out the location in one side of the disc of polystyrene, and in
the other, make a small hollow cylinder to make room at the end of the guide
tube (Ø 5 mm x 3 mm for example).
4 - paste in the disc of plywood with epoxy glue
5 - hot-cut (eg the nose with a glue gun heat) both light (p) for the passage
of spacers, guiding you on the edge of the plywood disk.
Manufacture of the lower plate
Draw and cut out a sheet of aluminum 0.8 mm ep the bottom of the cylinder (q), not forgetting the little inspection hatch (r) which you will respond later on the fixing of the slide (and possibly its replacement)
Manufacturing flywheel
Nothing significant to report except that he must find or make a plastic part (s) without returning to play in the CD (t), and stick to the glue heat. Then drill a hole of 1 mm at the center, and a second to 3.25 mm from the first to receive the axis which will hang the rod of the displacer.
Manufacture of shafts, connecting rods and slide
Nothing special either, except that these elements are fashioned from piano wire Ø 0,8 mm it should eventually recover, if, like me, you bought packaged roll.
Manufacture of the membrane
Initially, it will simply be cut in the thinnest part of a disposable glove vinyl (u) and pinch between two rings Ø 16 mm with a small bolt Ø 3 mm. Later, if you just want to improve the performance of your engine, you can quite simply make a membrane packs (available in stores, see FAQ) that will just look like two half-concentric circles (see next page ).
Assemble the slide and the displacer
(to help you balance the future, you can, before assembly, weigh the whole slide / mover on a letter scale mechanical, digital or better, giving the 1 / 10 g - note the weight of the whole and while you're also weigh the membrane with its screws and washers)
Post (important) a thin layer of oil over the entire length of the slide (v) except on the last centimeter, which is intended to be pasted into the plywood disk (o). Place the slide in the slide (f) since outside so that it exceeds about 2 cm in the cylinder, then press the mover on the slide until it comes to bear on the merits. Step back a bit to slide it flush with the upper surface of the mover. Center well spacers in the center of lights, and orient the glass ball as the main axis. When everything is aligned, glue to immobilize heat, let cool completely and make sure everything moves freely - see also riveted to version 3.4
Closing cylinder
You can now close the cylinder. Screw the lower plate (q) on the two spacers, and then paste it with silicone sealant. Smooth and let cure. (not paste the inspection hatch (r) as a last place when you've completed all the settings)
Latest assemblies and settings
1 - glue stick to the thermal CD (t) on its axis, taking into account the
phase shift of 90 ° between the crank and the displacer piston engine.
During cooling, check that the CD runs smoothly. While the glue is not completely
cold, you can still improve its alignment.
2 - Assemble the connecting rod of the displacer (w) and the set for 5 /
10 mm of play at top dead center and bottom dead center. Set the on-axis
with a small piece of duct electricity.
3 - Squeeze the membrane (u) between the lid hollowed out of the box of film
(h) and the body housing so as to leave could deflect 1 to 2 mm over the
course of the crank. Skip the rod engine (x) on the handle and glue it to
heat the glue on the screw (y) from the center of the membrane. Secure the
rod with a small piece of duct electricity.
4 - paste the inspection hatch (r) with neoprene glue, so you can disassemble
when needed. Let dry completely without touching the engine more!
5 - make the seal at the 4 screws that secure the spacers (m) infiltrate
leaving a drop of cyanoacrylate glue (liquid) between the screw head and
the platter surface
6 - drop the last drop of oil where the slide (v) enters the slide (f)
Static balancing
If you've weighed the various components before assembly, just for example statically balance the mover to the total of all that is suspended in the axis of the crank, and by then the ratio of lever arm you easily calculate the weight (and distance) of the balancing mass which will naturally be placed opposite to the axis of the handle - see FAQ --
Put simply, the moment due to the weight balancing must have the same value, and being opposite to that due to the weight of the moving of the mover. For example: if the mover + the + slide the rod weighing 10 g, if the crank has a deflection of 7 mm, and if you want to use a weight of 1 g, it will put 10 * 3.5 / 1 = 35 mm from the axis of the CD.
And you will just have to do the same thing on the side of the connecting rod and piston.
this video, it is actually the version 3.6 equipped with solar aluminum painted black and the discharge valve models 1.1 , 1.2 , 3.5, Otona no Kagaku, and the FAQ - his engine is running by 214 rpm under illumination of about 60,000 lux
sequence clocked at 15 frames / sec - counterclockwise rotation when the engine looks like this
in addition, you can also consult the installation instructions for LTD Stirling Engine
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Successful
completion ... |